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BMW 3 series E30Since 1983-1994 of releaseRepair and car operation |
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BMW E30 + 1. The maintenance instruction + 2. Maintenance service + 3. The engine + 4. Cooling system + 5. Heating and ventilation + 6. Fuel system + 7. An exhaust system + 8. Transmissions + 9. Coupling + 10. Brake system + 11. A running gear + 12. A body + 13. An electric equipment - 14. A good advice 14.2. Changed numbers 14.3. Purchase of the old car or a mysterious set of figures and letters 14.4. Durability of the car 14.5. About parallelism of bridges of the car and the trailer 14.6. Preparation of the car for winter 14.7. A rule 35 14.8. A choice of the second-hand car 14.9. Engine oils 14.10. That it is necessary to know, changing oil 14.11. Occurrence in deposit oil 14.12. Whether it is possible to mix import oils? 14.13. "Eats" much, but silently goes 14.14. It is more likely live, than it is dead … 14.15. It is not got - a good advice 14.16. Visit to car-care centre 14.17. A gear belt for a mechanism drive timing 14.18. Deterioration of pistons 14.19. Valves 14.20. Bearings of engines 14.21. Engine pollution 14.22. As the conditioner works and what to do, if it has failed 14.23. The conditioner: not only "pluses", but also "minuses" 14.24. Rules of service of the conditioner 14.25. It is not necessary to stir antifreeze with antifreeze … 14.26. That it is necessary to know at purchase of the air filter 14.27. An engine overheat 14.28. That it is necessary to know to the owner of the car with инжекторным the engine 14.29. The accumulator 14.30. Possible malfunctions of the storage battery 14.31. What to do with the failed generator 14.32. The belt is guilty, and we blame the generator 14.33. The catalyst 14.34. Three in one - or how to save the catalyst 14.35. slip 14.36. Features of operation of brake system 14.37. Malfunctions of brake system 14.38. Brake liquids 14.39. ABS: a natural choice 14.40. Wheel disks 14.41. We update wheel disks 14.42. The scheme of marks of an automobile tyre 14.43. Metal corrosion 14.44. An automake-up 14.45. What creaks? 14.46. The hatch 14.47. A safety pillow: troubles or pleasures? 14.48. We fit well? 14.49. Anticreeping "immunodeficiency" 14.50. Why headlights grow dull 14.51. "Галогенки" 14.52. About correct adjustment of headlights 14.53. The electric motor 14.54. From change of places "composed" varies nothing? |
14.53. The electric motor
The most widespread malfunction in electromotors – isolation breakdown in windings. We will admit, you have put the car on parking, and to switch off "yard keepers" have forgotten. It is enough three-four hours, that the winding has burnt through. Or have left a rag in подкапотной to a niche where draughts of screen wipers move. The motor gets jammed with the same result for its windings. Sometimes isolation manages to be restored, having sustained an anchor in bank with engine oil. The much bigger effect is given by slightly warmed-up drying oil if to sustain in it an anchor in some stages, doing daily breaks for drying. The same trouble – winding breakdown – overtakes also the electromotor of a washer of a windscreen. There is it frequently from a carelessness of the automobile owner when or the tank with water is empty, or the liquid has frozen, or jets-raspryskivateli or the pump filter are "tightly hammered, and in the block of safety locks in an electromotor chain costs"жучок". In general with safety locks it is better not to joke. It will allow to avoid not only the short circuit terminating sometimes in a fire, but also it is easier to find out malfunctions. For the beginning motorist should be gold corrected: it is necessary to begin searches of the reasons of malfunctions of an electric equipment with the block of safety locks. I remember, when I bought the car first in the life in shop has paid attention that the control lamp of a charge of the accumulator burns. Then the assumption was born that, should be, or generator brushes have not got used yet, or "makes a fool" of a pressure regulator (at that time cars were completed with mechanical relays-regulators of the Bulgarian manufacture. Happened, they worked on "recharge", and the bulb) lighted up. Replacement of the relay-regulator of results has not given: the generator simply did not develop energy. Replacement щеточного knot too has appeared useless. It was necessary to remove the generator, preliminary plums from system cooling liquid and having dismantled the thermostat. Check of windings of the generator and "bridge" of diodes has shown that everything is all right. Only then, having done all this unnecessary work on absolutely new car, I have guessed to glance in the block of safety locks. Certainly. A corresponding safety lock in a chain of excitation of a winding of the generator it was not simple. So if at you the generator has refused, begin check with a safety lock. Let even it is whole, be not too lazy to smooth out a zone of its contact. Only after that undertake directly the generator. However do not hasten with its dismantling and dismantle. At first check up щеточный knot. Presence large having chopped off on brushes, their considerable deterioration or замасливание can already serve as a generator cause of a failure. Pay attention to a condition of contact rings of an anchor which are visible in a window into which it is inserted щеточный knot. Scratches and grooves are deduced by a grinding skin, then polished. If these operations do not give result, it will be necessary to undertake for выпрямительный the block, preliminary having disconnected wires from the storage battery and the generator. Block check make by means of a control lamp. The negative pole of the battery is deduced on the generator case, positive – through a bulb – on a conclusion "30". If the bulb lights up, means, выпрямительный the block is punched also it it is necessary to change. Happens, the truth that прбивает either positive, or negative gates of the block. But, perhaps, it is better not to press in these subtleties, as separate replacement of gates does not practise. At last, about a starter. It, perhaps, one of the most durable knots of the car though it "works" in the severe conditions. Even when the engine, in a starter capitally is under repair, happens, change only brushes and smooth out contact rings. The weakest place of a starter – обгонная муфта, or "бендикс": in it, happens, scatter or persistent rollers lie down. And then at engine start-up hum is heard only: the starter rotates, but does not turn a motor flywheel. "бендикса" washing sometimes helps with kerosene or acetone. But умельцы, as a rule, развальцовывают the holder with rollers and or is changed by all details of a holder, or carefully they are washed out. Other widespread malfunction is connected not with a starter, and with oxidation or breakage of tips of the special wattled tyre connecting the engine with a body, that is "weight" (the tyre is located under the engine) more. In this case the starter publishes characteristic clicks or in general "is silent", if, of course, "silence" is not caused by other reason – a detachment плюсового conducting of the relay of a starter. Check is anyhow necessary. If relay conductings on a place – undertake the tyre. But if conductings nevertheless has jumped out, do not try to insert it, without removing a starter – will waste in vain time. The starter should be dismantled. |
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