BMW 3 series E30

Since 1983-1994 of release

Repair and car operation



BMW E30
+ 1. The maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance service
+ 3. The engine
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Heating and ventilation
+ 6. Fuel system
+ 7. An exhaust system
+ 8. Transmissions
+ 9. Coupling
+ 10. Brake system
+ 11. A running gear
+ 12. A body
+ 13. An electric equipment
- 14. A good advice
   14.2. Changed numbers
   14.3. Purchase of the old car or a mysterious set of figures and letters
   14.4. Durability of the car
   14.5. About parallelism of bridges of the car and the trailer
   14.6. Preparation of the car for winter
   14.7. A rule 35
   14.8. A choice of the second-hand car
   14.9. Engine oils
   14.10. That it is necessary to know, changing oil
   14.11. Occurrence in deposit oil
   14.12. Whether it is possible to mix import oils?
   14.13. "Eats" much, but silently goes
   14.14. It is more likely live, than it is dead …
   14.15. It is not got - a good advice
   14.16. Visit to car-care centre
   14.17. A gear belt for a mechanism drive timing
   14.18. Deterioration of pistons
   14.19. Valves
   14.20. Bearings of engines
   14.21. Engine pollution
   14.22. As the conditioner works and what to do, if it has failed
   14.23. The conditioner: not only "pluses", but also "minuses"
   14.24. Rules of service of the conditioner
   14.25. It is not necessary to stir antifreeze with antifreeze …
   14.26. That it is necessary to know at purchase of the air filter
   14.27. An engine overheat
   14.28. That it is necessary to know to the owner of the car with инжекторным the engine
   14.29. The accumulator
   14.30. Possible malfunctions of the storage battery
   14.31. What to do with the failed generator
   14.32. The belt is guilty, and we blame the generator
   14.33. The catalyst
   14.34. Three in one - or how to save the catalyst
   14.35. slip
   14.36. Features of operation of brake system
   14.37. Malfunctions of brake system
   14.38. Brake liquids
   14.39. ABS: a natural choice
   14.40. Wheel disks
   14.41. We update wheel disks
   14.42. The scheme of marks of an automobile tyre
   14.43. Metal corrosion
   14.44. An automake-up
   14.45. What creaks?
   14.46. The hatch
   14.47. A safety pillow: troubles or pleasures?
   14.48. We fit well?
   14.49. Anticreeping "immunodeficiency"
   14.50. Why headlights grow dull
   14.51. "Галогенки"
   14.52. About correct adjustment of headlights
   14.53. The electric motor
   14.54. From change of places "composed" varies nothing?





14.53. The electric motor
THE GENERAL DATA

The most widespread malfunction in electromotors – isolation breakdown in windings. We will admit, you have put the car on parking, and to switch off "yard keepers" have forgotten. It is enough three-four hours, that the winding has burnt through. Or have left a rag in подкапотной to a niche where draughts of screen wipers move. The motor gets jammed with the same result for its windings.

Sometimes isolation manages to be restored, having sustained an anchor in bank with engine oil. The much bigger effect is given by slightly warmed-up drying oil if to sustain in it an anchor in some stages, doing daily breaks for drying.

The same trouble – winding breakdown – overtakes also the electromotor of a washer of a windscreen. There is it frequently from a carelessness of the automobile owner when or the tank with water is empty, or the liquid has frozen, or jets-raspryskivateli or the pump filter are "tightly hammered, and in the block of safety locks in an electromotor chain costs"жучок".

In general with safety locks it is better not to joke. It will allow to avoid not only the short circuit terminating sometimes in a fire, but also it is easier to find out malfunctions.

For the beginning motorist should be gold corrected: it is necessary to begin searches of the reasons of malfunctions of an electric equipment with the block of safety locks.

I remember, when I bought the car first in the life in shop has paid attention that the control lamp of a charge of the accumulator burns. Then the assumption was born that, should be, or generator brushes have not got used yet, or "makes a fool" of a pressure regulator (at that time cars were completed with mechanical relays-regulators of the Bulgarian manufacture. Happened, they worked on "recharge", and the bulb) lighted up. Replacement of the relay-regulator of results has not given: the generator simply did not develop energy. Replacement щеточного knot too has appeared useless.

It was necessary to remove the generator, preliminary plums from system cooling liquid and having dismantled the thermostat. Check of windings of the generator and "bridge" of diodes has shown that everything is all right. Only then, having done all this unnecessary work on absolutely new car, I have guessed to glance in the block of safety locks. Certainly. A corresponding safety lock in a chain of excitation of a winding of the generator it was not simple.

So if at you the generator has refused, begin check with a safety lock. Let even it is whole, be not too lazy to smooth out a zone of its contact. Only after that undertake directly the generator.

However do not hasten with its dismantling and dismantle. At first check up щеточный knot. Presence large having chopped off on brushes, their considerable deterioration or замасливание can already serve as a generator cause of a failure.

Pay attention to a condition of contact rings of an anchor which are visible in a window into which it is inserted щеточный knot. Scratches and grooves are deduced by a grinding skin, then polished. If these operations do not give result, it will be necessary to undertake for выпрямительный the block, preliminary having disconnected wires from the storage battery and the generator. Block check make by means of a control lamp. The negative pole of the battery is deduced on the generator case, positive – through a bulb – on a conclusion "30".

If the bulb lights up, means, выпрямительный the block is punched also it it is necessary to change. Happens, the truth that прбивает either positive, or negative gates of the block. But, perhaps, it is better not to press in these subtleties, as separate replacement of gates does not practise.

At last, about a starter. It, perhaps, one of the most durable knots of the car though it "works" in the severe conditions. Even when the engine, in a starter capitally is under repair, happens, change only brushes and smooth out contact rings.

The weakest place of a starter – обгонная муфта, or "бендикс": in it, happens, scatter or persistent rollers lie down. And then at engine start-up hum is heard only: the starter rotates, but does not turn a motor flywheel. "бендикса" washing sometimes helps with kerosene or acetone. But умельцы, as a rule, развальцовывают the holder with rollers and or is changed by all details of a holder, or carefully they are washed out.

Other widespread malfunction is connected not with a starter, and with oxidation or breakage of tips of the special wattled tyre connecting the engine with a body, that is "weight" (the tyre is located under the engine) more. In this case the starter publishes characteristic clicks or in general "is silent", if, of course, "silence" is not caused by other reason – a detachment плюсового conducting of the relay of a starter. Check is anyhow necessary. If relay conductings on a place – undertake the tyre. But if conductings nevertheless has jumped out, do not try to insert it, without removing a starter – will waste in vain time. The starter should be dismantled.

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